Does At-Home Laser Hair Removal Work?
Hair removal of any kind—be it waxing, shaving, plucking, or lasering—has always been a highly private affair for me. I understand that it's entirely normal for people to visit salons, take off their pants, and spread their legs to let a stranger remove the hair from their perineum, but I simply can't bring myself to do that. I believe giving yourself an at-home Brazilian builds character in the same way assembling a piece of furniture does. It can be frustrating at times and always takes longer than you anticipate, but it offers a pleasant diversion from whatever else is going on in your life and leaves you with a sense of achievement and pride when completed.
However, with shelter-in-place orders in effect for an unknown duration, I'm forgoing waxing and reconnecting with my LumaRx Full Body IPL Skin Beauty System ($449) instead. A few years ago, I used the hair removal device as directed for three months and witnessed remarkable results on my legs, arms, and bikini line that persisted for nearly a whole year. (It's worth noting that while at-home devices are less powerful than in-office lasers, neither is truly everlasting. Most people need annual touch-ups to sustain the outcomes.) I completely neglected maintenance and am now determined to stay committed this time.
If you're bemoaning the fact that salons, medical spas, and doctors' offices aren't currently open for your hair removal requirements—or you simply need a pastime—I consulted two experts to obtain all the information you need to know before investing in and operating an at-home device.
Does At-Home Laser Hair Removal Work?
"I think [at-home devices] can be effective for the appropriate individual," states Dr. Nikhil Dhringra, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. "Laser hair removal essentially hinges on the pigment in the hair and, to a certain extent, a contrast between the pigment of the hair and the lack of pigment in the skin. For the fairest skin types, especially those with darker hair to eliminate, it can be effective. For others, it's much less likely to be."
He further adds that not only are at-home devices "comparatively underpowered in contrast to the in-office options," but they also tend to employ intense pulse light, which is less concentrated than laser light. "IPL is undoubtedly not safe for anyone with pigment in their skin," Dr. Dhringa emphasizes. His principal caution is that individuals who are "endowed with melanin" or have any trace of a tan should steer clear of at-home devices, "even if the brand claims safety for all skin colors."
Josie Holes, an esthetician at NYC's SKINNEY Medspa, asserts that at-home laser gizmos simply can't match up to in-office devices. Not only is the energy output too low, they are unable to treat skin tones darker than olive (whereas licensed professionals can handle all skin tones, she claims) or detect blonde, red, or gray hair. "The sole reason these at-home tools could be beneficial or efficient in any manner is for treating a very small area, such as the lips or underarms, or for maintaining an area that has already been treated in the office."
Is At-Home Laser Hair Removal Safe? What Are the Greatest Risks of At-Home Laser or Light Devices?
The chief risk, as per the experts, is hyperpigmentation and skin damage resulting from the use of a device not suitable for your skin tone or hair color. Although at-home tools generally offer basic guidelines, it's advisable to consult your dermatologist or a laser hair removal specialist before making an investment. "Some of these gadgets are smart enough and will actually prevent the laser from firing if the skin or hair color is not ideal," says Holes, "but if you're unsure, the Remington iLIGHT Pro Plus Quartz [$400] will handle it for you."
Beyond that, Holes believes "at-home laser devices are generally very safe. The FDA would not permit companies to manufacture and sell these devices to the general public if they could cause any serious harm." Nevertheless, it's crucial to be cognizant of the contraindications for treatment—for instance, pregnant and breastfeeding women are not eligible—so she suggests conducting thorough research first.
You'll also want to avoid retinoids, antibiotics, tanning lotions, and sun exposure before and after treatment for at least two weeks, and refrain from waxing or plucking hairs from the treatment area. "That removes the hair directly from the follicle, when it is the hair in the follicle that is targeted by the light in the lasers," she elaborates. (Shaving, on the other hand, is necessary before treatment.) Over-treating an area is also a concern, says Holes, so make sure to carefully read the instruction manual before use, as the number of passes can vary among tools.
Related: Your Guide to Safe and Effective Hair Removal Lasers for Fair, Medium, and Deep Skin Tones
Do You Need to Wear Protective Eyewear at Home?
Many laser hair removal tools do not come accompanied by protective glasses, but Dr. Dhringa remarks "eye protection is essential," as there are "structures in your eyes that can be affected by the wavelength of light and laser emitted by these devices." You can find numerous options on Amazon.
In addition to safeguarding your eyes, Holes says you should ensure not to activate your device near mirrors: "The type of light utilized in laser technologies will reflect off mirrors and disperse its energy."
Which Areas Should You Not Treat at Home?
Both Dr. Dhringa and Holes concur: leave lasering the genitals to the professionals. "This is an extremely sensitive area that can easily get burned if not treated with the correct settings," cautions Holes. She recommends adhering to small areas, such as the upper lip, underarms, toes, or just the bikini line.
If you decide to treat larger areas, Dr. Dhringa says that "to properly utilize these devices for hair removal, you need firm contact with the skin, so hard-to-reach areas like the back might be challenging to do unless a friend can assist."
How Often Can You Do At-Home Laser Hair Removal Treatment?
If you're getting laser hair removal performed in a doctor's office or medical spa, sessions are spaced four to six weeks apart. "There are four stages to hair growth—anagen, catagen, telogen, and exogen—and they cycle throughout a four to six week period," explains Holes. Anagen is the ideal time for treatment. "The hair is still attached to the papilla, located at the base of the hair follicle, but is visible above the skin. It's noticeable when you're in this stage; you can clearly see the hairs above the epidermis," says Holes. (But don't forget to shave: "Stubble will cause the treatment to be less effective, as some of the energy being emitted is wasted on the external hair.")
Most at-home devices, however, suggest treating the desired area every two weeks. According to Tria's website, "Hair grows in cycles, so not every hair can be treated at the same time. After your second treatment, 70% less hair grows back, and you're already on your way to permanent results. However, to treat the remaining hairs, the laser needs to reach each hair follicle during its growth cycle. For permanent results, treat the area once every two weeks for at least three months until all hairs have been treated, and the hair stops growing back."
Related: 8 At-Home Devices That Actually Make a Difference in Your Skin and Hair, According to Doctors
When Can You Expect to Start Seeing Results?
It varies and depends on skin tone and hair color, but Holes states "most at-home laser hair removal devices claim that you can see full results within 8-10 treatments." In the office, fair skin tones can typically observe results after two or three sessions, whereas Dr. Dhringa says it can often take six to eight for dark skin tones to obtain satisfactory results.
What Can You Do to Make the Treatment Less Painful?
Dr. Dhringa recommends taking a mild anti-inflammatory, like ibuprofen, one hour before treatment, and then applying ice to the area afterward. And remember, says Holes, "Your treatment doesn't have to be painful to see hair reduction. If you find that higher settings are more painful, you can keep your device at a medium or lower setting. This will merely prolong the time it takes to see results."
