Hyaluronic acid undoubtedly belongs to the category of “reliable and proven” skin-care ingredients, standing alongside significant ones such as retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids. But what distinguishes hyaluronic acid (or HA, as it is often referred to) from the others is not only its safety and effectiveness for nearly all skin types but also the existence of multiple distinct forms that can be employed in various ways. For instance, it is the main component in a wide array of injectable fillers as well as in numerous topical serums and moisturizers.
Ahead, an in-depth exploration of everything there is to know about this cherished ingredient, useful tips on how to maximize its advantages, and the top hyaluronic acid products to try in 2024.
What is hyaluronic acid?
Spoiler alert – the name is somewhat misleading, as hyaluronic acid is actually not an acid at all. It is a complex sugar, a polysaccharide molecule that is naturally present in both our skin and other connective tissues in the body. “It is a major constituent of the skin, responsible for keeping it healthy, plump, and hydrated,” explains New York City board-certified dermatologist Dr. Orit Markowitz. And similar to other key components such as collagen and elastin, the naturally occurring hyaluronic acid diminishes both with age and due to exposure to UV rays and environmental pollution, she elaborates.
Hyaluronic acid benefits
When you consider hyaluronic acid, think about hydration. It is a humectant, meaning it attracts water and retains it in the skin. “I frequently call it ‘the miraculous molecule,’ because it can hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water,” states New York City board-certified dermatologist Dr. Michelle Henry. This implies that it not only assists in hydrating the skin but also makes it appear plumper and smoother almost immediately. Its other significant advantage? “Hyaluronic acid is safe for all skin types, and almost everyone can tolerate it,” says Dr. Henry. So indeed, regardless of whether you are dealing with acne or an inflammatory condition like rosacea or eczema, you will likely be able to use it without any issue. “It is an ingredient that we inject into the body and is not rejected, which simply demonstrates how well it is tolerated,” notes Dr. Henry. Regarding this point…
Hyaluronic acid fillers vs. hyaluronic acid serums
Injectable hyaluronic acid and topical hyaluronic acid are similar… yet different. The hyaluronic acid used in injectable fillers is created using a bacteria that makes the hyaluronic acid nearly identical to what is naturally produced in our skin, whereas that level of specificity is not necessary in a topical product, explains Dr. Henry. The other major difference: injectable hyaluronic acid is never hydrolyzed (more on what this means shortly), so it is thicker and not absorbable, says Dr. Markowitz. It is precisely for this reason that injectable hyaluronic acid fillers are highly effective in providing volume. Yes, they do attract some water, but the viscosity of the filler itself is what adds fullness, explains Dr. Henry.
When it comes to topical products, it is crucial to bear in mind that HA is a very large molecule, which makes it difficult for HA to penetrate the skin. “The most effective products contain multiple distinct forms of hyaluronic acid, all with different molecular weights,” explains Dr. Henry. “This indicates that the larger ones can rest on the surface of the skin and the smaller ones can reach deeper, closer to the dermal-epidermal junction. Because they are all attracting water, the entire depth of the epidermis becomes hydrated,” she says. For example, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is often utilized, which is simply a “chopped-up” version of the molecule with a lower molecular weight.
How to use hyaluronic acid
A few straightforward tips can assist you in making the most of all the splendid benefits of HA. To begin with, regardless of whether it is a serum or a cream, any hyaluronic acid-based product should always be the first step in your moisturizing routine, advises Dr. Markowitz. Both dermatologists we spoke with recommend layering a thicker cream – with emollients such as ceramides or occlusives such as dimethicone – over it, to seal in all the water that hyaluronic acid is attracting. It is also a good notion to apply your HA product to slightly damp skin, essentially giving the HA a head start and more moisture to latch onto, explains Dr. Markowitz. Similarly, you can enhance the effect even further by applying your hyaluronic acid product in a humid environment (think: a steamy bathroom after a shower). “The ingredient will still function even if you are in a dry and arid environment, but having some atmospheric moisture present is even better, as the HA can draw that into the skin,” explains Dr. Henry.
Related: Hyaluronic Acid vs. Biostimulatory Fillers: What to Know Before You Get Injected
The top hyaluronic acid serums and creams
SkinMedica HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator ($120)
Dr. Henry favors this serum – which, as the name indicates, showcases five distinct forms of hyaluronic acid, to provide long-lasting hydration (up to eight hours precisely). Additionally, it also works to assist your skin in replenishing its own stores of hyaluronic acid.
ClarityRX Daily Dose of Water Hydrating Serum ($72)
Hyaluronic acid is one of just four ingredients in this ultra-hydrating yet ultra-lightweight serum. Apply a few drops to clean skin, in the morning and at night. If your skin is oily or acne-prone, you might discover that this provides sufficient hydration, although you can, of course, layer a moisturizer over it, as needed.
ClarityRX Feel Better Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizing Cream ($66)
Speaking of moisturizer, this formula is also filled with hyaluronic acid, just in a slightly richer and thicker formulation – which is excellent for those who desire a bit more hydration. Bonus points for the addition of protective antioxidants as well as the fast-absorbing texture that is never greasy or sticky.
Vichy LiftActiv Hyaluronic Acid Wrinkle Corrector ($37.50)
This budget-friendly option combines 1.5% pure hyaluronic acid with vitamin C. According to brand-backed clinical testing, this combination ultimately leads to a 47% reduction in wrinkles after just six weeks of use. Also great: it is very gentle and fragrance-free, suitable for use even around your eyes.
HydroPeptide Power Serum ($144)
Yes, this is an excellent hydrating serum thanks to, you guessed it, hyaluronic acid, but the benefits do not end there. It is an all-around powerful anti-aging product, thanks to the addition of six peptide complexes that help relax wrinkles. Multitasking at its best.
SkinCeuticals Hyaluronic Acid Intensifier ($100)
This formula, another favorite of Dr. Henry, boosts your skin’s hyaluronic acid levels by an impressive 30%. Credit not only the hyaluronic acid involved but also ingredients such as proxylane, licorice root extract, and purple rice extract, all of which help preserve the HA already in your skin.
BeautyStat Universal Pro-Bio Moisture Boost Cream ($50)
An especially ideal choice for those with sensitive skin, this fragrance-free, dermatologist-tested cream combines hyaluronic acid with skin-strengthening ceramides. Also included are healing and soothing probiotics, which all work together to leave your skin looking (and feeling) smoother and more supple.
