How to Clean Your Pores
Whether you are prone to skin breakouts or not, pores often have the bothersome tendency to get clogged due to dead skin cells, excessive oil production, or a combination of both. Removing this accumulation is crucial for maintaining clear and healthy skin, particularly if you have oily skin. It should be noted that clogged pores can occur in all skin types; after all, pores are merely the openings of hair follicles, and everyone has them. While active sebaceous glands (common in oily skin) may make you more prone to clogs, others are not necessarily spared.
In the worst-case situation? Without a regular pore-clearing routine in your skincare regimen, the buildup within pores can eventually develop into pimples. For instance, the combination of sebum and dead cells can result in blackheads (if the comedone is open, causing the clog to oxidize and turn black) and whiteheads (where the comedone is closed, leaving the clog white). Even if they don't cause whiteheads, blackheads, or other forms of acne, they can still contribute to the appearance of enlarged pores – as the debris inside can actually stretch the pore walls.
Not surprisingly, there are countless ways to unclog pores, ranging from traditional DIY pore strips to clay masks. And, of course, there are pore vacuums, which offer deep pore-cleansing capabilities. "I view pore vacuums as an alternative to scrubs or exfoliators," says Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. "You can use them once or twice a week to keep the skin clear and minimize the appearance of pores."
However, with this added power comes additional responsibility. Dr. Deanne Mraz Robinson, a board-certified dermatologist in Westport, Connecticut, cautions that if the vacuums are used too vigorously, you could easily end up with broken capillaries that might require laser treatment for repair. "With continuous use, excessive pulling on the delicate skin around the eyes and mouth can lead to wrinkles and skin laxity," she warns. And if you have very sensitive skin, rosacea, or are prone to eczema, adding the suction of a vacuum or the manual exfoliation of one of these tools could worsen the condition.
To use one safely, Dr. Robinson suggests starting by loosening the sebum in the clogged pores with steam or using the device after a shower (since warm water can enlarge the pores). Follow up with a non-comedogenic, oil-free moisturizer to restore the moisture naturally lost from the skin during the deep-cleaning process, and also apply a sunscreen.
With one of these popular pore cleansers, you can step away from the magnifying mirror and make better use of your time at home. Maybe start a sourdough starter?
How to Clean Your Pores
Chemical Exfoliants
Whether you prefer to wash your face with a salicylic acid-based cleanser or swear by a gentle chemical peel, chemical exfoliants – ranging from alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids to fruit enzymes – can assist in keeping pores clear. Beta-hydroxy acid, or BHA, is particularly beneficial for clogged pores; it is oil-soluble, enabling it to enter the pore and clear it from within. Glycolic acid, a type of alpha hydroxy acid, is also helpful as it essentially dissolves the substance that binds dead cells together on the skin's surface, allowing them to shed more easily. You can also find chemical exfoliants in toners and face masks.
Retinoids
It's no surprise to anyone who has tried retinol: retinoids – the collective term for both prescription-strength retinoids and over-the-counter retinol – can help keep pores clean and unclogged. Not only do they accelerate cellular turnover, allowing the skin to shed dead skin cells and bring healthy ones to the surface, but they can also stimulate collagen production – making them ideal if you're dealing with adult acne, as retinoids address both acne and signs of aging. Just be sure to use retinoids at night and follow with sunscreen during the day, as they can make the skin sensitive to sunlight. (FYI: The American Academy of Dermatology recommends a minimum of SPF 30 for the best protection.)
Face Masks
While clay-based face masks have traditionally been the preferred choice for removing grime and oil, they can sometimes be overly effective, stripping the skin of its natural oils. Instead, opt for charcoal masks; charcoal extracts blockages from pores without drying the skin. Stay away from homemade face masks, such as those containing baking soda – they can be too harsh for the skin and may cause irritation.
Pore-Cleaning Vacuums
Rodan + Fields Pore Cleansing MD System, $260
The combination of suction and pressure along with interchangeable heads makes this device comparable to medical-grade options, according to Dr. Rita Linkner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. You have the option between a two-speed suction tip to remove debris from pores and a spring-action pressure tip designed to target individual blackheads, mimicking the extraction process.
The pretreatment serum, containing salicylic and lactic acids, breaks down pore-clogging skin cells and sebum to prepare the skin. "This leads to a more effective overall treatment," Dr. Linkner explains. "My favorite aspect of the device is the disposable heads, which add a layer of sterility to this system," she says. "This is extremely important when treating active acne and preventing the risk of spread."
Related: The 4 Biggest Mistakes People Make During an At-Home Facial
PMD Personal Microderm Classic , $159
An oscillating aluminum oxide crystal disc in conjunction with suction works to polish the skin, making this tool comparable to professional facials. "This will remove dead skin cells on the surface, allowing the suction to better reach what's inside the pore," Dr. Robinson says. Removing this dull layer leaves the skin smoother and more radiant, and also means there are fewer clogging keratinocytes to fill your pores in the future. The addition of a larger tip for treating larger areas of the body, such as the upper arms, adds to the tool's versatility, especially if you have conditions like keratosis pilaris.
PMD provides three discs to vary the intensity of the exfoliation. Start with the gentlest one and make only one pass over each area of the face to avoid bruising.
While microdermabrasion is a favorite among dermatologists for promoting cellular turnover and keeping pores unclogged, Dr. Michelle Henry, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, warns that since this device temporarily increases inflammation, people with acne, rosacea, and melasma should avoid it. A guard around the disc helps protect the skin from excessive pressure, but it's still advisable to choose the lowest intensity and wait a week between treatments.
Spa Sciences MIO , $29
What makes this device stand out are the fine diamond particles that physically exfoliate the top layer of the skin. "Diamond tips are gentle, effective, and durable," Dr. Zeichner says. "The extremely fine particles provide gentle exfoliation to remove dead skin cells and enhance light reflection." Dr. Henry adds that polishing away the surface layers not only brightens the complexion but also stimulates the skin to promote the growth of healthy new skin cells.
The MIO offers five speed settings, meaning you can stay in the lower range to avoid putting excessive stress on your skin. Additionally, the three suction tips are designed to contour to the challenging areas of the T-zone where blackheads tend to accumulate, such as the edges of the nose and the chin.
Dermaflash Dermapore , $99
To assist in blackhead extraction, the Dermapore uses sonic vibration to free dirt, oil, and dead skin from pores. "Sonic vibrations are extremely gentle and can help dislodge microscopic blockages in the skin," Dr. Zeichner says. This is a gentler option than manual extraction, according to Dr. Henry, but using too much pressure with the device can permanently enlarge pores or cause broken blood vessels. She advises starting with the ultra-sensitive setting to manage the force before increasing the intensity.
This tool earns points for its multifunctionality: switch to Infuse mode, and the vibrations will assist serums and moisturizers in penetrating for better absorption.
Gugug Skin Scrubber , $25
This high-frequency vibrating stainless steel spatula not only frees sebum but also releases positive ions, which aid in the pore-cleaning process by "attracting negatively charged impurities in the pores and drawing them out," Dr. Henry explains, "so you can then wash them away." Switching the ionic current from positive to negative enables you to drive in active ingredients by enhancing the penetration of your skincare products. Put the wand in Lifting mode for massaging benefits that help tone the facial muscles like an automated gua sha tool to subtly define your features.
