1) The most effective LED light treatments involve red and/or blue light
LED light presents in a diverse range of colors, but all the experts we conversed with concur that red and/or blue LED treatments are the preferred choices. These hues are the most employed, researched, and efficacious, clarifies Dr. Kiran Mian, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. Red light has a wavelength spanning from 620 to 750 nm (nanometers), while blue light has a shorter wavelength ranging from 400 to 495 nm. "This implies that red light permeates deeper within the skin, where it boosts collagen production, aids in damage repair, and reduces cytokines that trigger inflammation," she elaborates. It is ideal for those seeking anti-aging benefits – combating fine lines and wrinkles and enhancing elasticity – as well as minimizing redness. (This is the reason why LED light treatment for rosacea exists.)
Conversely, blue light operates slightly more superficially. It eliminates the bacteria associated with acne, P. acnes, as stated by Dr. Mian. It also targets the sebaceous glands, reducing oil production, and for this reason, this type of LED acne treatment is an excellent option for those with oily or blemish-prone skin, adds Dr. Sobel.
2) In-office LED facial treatments consistently outperform at-home ones
When comparing professional and at-home devices of any sort, the latter are simply not going to be as potent (meaning as effective) as the former. An at-home LED light treatment is simply not constructed to provide the same amount of energy as you can obtain with a professional treatment – not to mention that brands need to consider the fact that consumer user errors are always a possibility, Dr. Sobel points out. These companies are aware that there will always be someone who fails to read the instructions and uses the device for extended periods or shines it into their eyes, adds Dr. Konstantin Vasyukevich, a board-certified facial plastic surgeon in New York City. And indeed, while LED light is generally safe, any form of medical treatment has the potential to cause harm if used excessively or inaccurately, he remarks. (In related information, both in-office and at-home LED treatments are not recommended for clients with compromised skin – that is, if you have open sores or a rash – as the energy will impact the skin differently and the outcomes are much less predictable, as stated by Dr. Mian. They are also typically not advised for pregnant women, as there simply isn't sufficient research to confirm their safety for both the mother and the baby.)
All that having been said, "This doesn't imply that the at-home ones are ineffective. The question simply is whether they are effective enough to produce a noticeable difference," says Dr. Sobel. And here's where the details are significant. Not all over-the-counter devices are of equal quality; a swift Google search reveals a bewildering array of choices, with prices ranging from less than 50 dollars to hundreds of dollars. To that end…
3) Examine the specifics of any at-home LED facial treatment
If you do wish to acquire a DIY tool, conduct your research. Broadly speaking, you get what you pay for, remarks Dr. Mian. (In other words, yes, you'll likely be spending a considerable amount.) But there are still a few crucial aspects to look for. Firstly, ensure that the wavelengths are disclosed for any LED light skin treatment. While both red and blue light fall within a certain range, the "optimal spot" for red light is 633 nm, while 400–470 nm is ideal for blue light; these are the specific wavelengths that have been studied to yield the best effects, she explains. For instance, the Dr. Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro ($455) lists its red light at 630–700 nm and blue light at 400–470 nm.
Next, check to see if the total energy, measured in milliwatts, is indicated. "A good LED treatment will provide anywhere between 40 and 100 milliwatts," says Dr. Mian, although that range is mostly found among in-office options; at-home ones typically fall slightly below or at the lower end of that range. Take the CurrentBody Skin LED Light Therapy Face Mask ($380), which delivers 30 milliwatts, or the Solawave 4-in-1 Radiant Renewal Skincare Wand ($169), which packs 40–45 milliwatts. It's also beneficial to select devices that have undergone clinical studies – the results of which you can find with a quick Google search – as well as those that have before and after pictures on their websites, adds Dr. Sobel. Regardless, LED light should never feel hot on your skin. If the device heats up, that's a warning sign and you should cease usage, particularly if you're prone to melasma, which can be exacerbated by heat, Dr. Mian cautions.
4) LED light skin treatments are optimally used as an adjunct to your routine
While all the doctors we spoke to assert that LED treatments do have the potential to yield genuine results, they are still best utilized as an addition to the remainder of your skin-care/cosmetic-treatment regimen. "LED therapy is beneficial for maintaining the condition of the skin, a key element of overall facial rejuvenation, but because it is relatively mild, there is still a role for other procedures such as lasers, peels, microneedling, and injectables," says Dr. Vasyukevich. For your information, this holds true for both in-office treatments and their at-home equivalents. Both Dr. Mian and Dr. Sobel note that they most frequently employ in-office LED light treatment facials in combination with other treatments, for example, after one of the aforementioned options, like a laser or peel.
And if you're using an at-home device, it certainly is not a direct replacement for tried-and-true topical products – think retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, and the like. "LED therapy cannot be your sole 'source' of skin care. It's better to view it as an addition to the other measures you're already undertaking," Dr. Mian remarks.
5) Consistency and patience are crucial
Even so, don't anticipate an immediate solution. Both professional and DIY LED face treatments need to be carried out regularly, and it will take time to observe results. Exactly how long depends largely on the device and the state of your skin, but as a general guideline, this is something you need to do at least three times per week for six weeks before you'll start to notice a difference, states Dr. Mian. (Though she does note that the effects of blue light may become apparent slightly sooner than red, around the four-week mark.) Regarding the at-home devices, this is why it's also important to choose one that is comfortable and simple to use and incorporate into your daily routine. "If you don't have 15 minutes to lie down and keep your eyes closed, you're better off picking one that you can wear while multitasking," Dr. Mian advises.
