The Rising Trend of CBD in Skincare
In recent years, one of the most prominent trends in the skincare domain can be narrowed down to three letters: CBD. Cannabidiol, or CBD, has been making its presence felt in wellness and beauty products, promising to address a wide range of issues, from stress and sleep disorders to the dull coat of your pets.
The explosion of CBD-based skincare products is especially notable, as companies aim to leverage the potential advantages it offers to the skin and hair. However, this ingredient is not without controversy, and sifting through the scientific data to determine how and where to apply it can be challenging. Before integrating it into your skincare regimen, let's explore the fundamentals of CBD beauty products and other essential information about this popular ingredient.
What is CBD Oil?
CBD is a derivative of the hemp plant. It does not possess the psychoactive properties of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), which is the primary psychoactive component in cannabis. It operates on the body's endogenous endocannabinoid system, which is involved in regulating sleep, mood, appetite, inflammation, and pain.
Commonly added to a carrier oil, CBD is classified using various descriptors on ingredient lists and product labels. Here's a brief overview of the CBD terms you should know:
- “CBD isolate” indicates that it has been isolated.
- “Full-spectrum CBD” implies it contains all the compounds found in the hemp plant.
- “Broad-spectrum CBD” falls somewhere in between the two.
Full-spectrum CBD and broad-spectrum CBD are typically regarded as more favorable, as research suggests that the combination of compounds enhances their efficacy.
Why It's Trending and the Potential Benefits of CBD
Virginia Lee, the CBD research manager at the Brightfield Group in Chicago, shares several reasons for the extract's significant attention. "CBD shows potential to be a long-term trend and is more sustainable compared to other new popular ingredients," she begins. Describing it as versatile, she further states that the potential benefits of CBD encompass but are not limited to:
- Relief from pain
- Reduction in anxiety
- Anti-acne properties
- Anti-inflammatory attributes
This ingredient is also prevalent in CBD beauty products and other formulations (such as topical applications, tinctures, and edible products) due to its colorless, tasteless, and odorless nature. Additionally, Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, notes that he is observing an increased interest from patients in CBD skincare as part of a broader trend that beauty brands are also acknowledging. "It is growing in popularity as consumers seek more natural treatment options," he elaborates.
What Are the Controversial Aspects?
Obtaining information about CBD has been rather slow. Why? "Since hemp - and consequently, CBD - has been a controlled substance for many years, research on CBD has been restricted," explains Lee. This changed with the 2018 Farm Bill, which excluded derivatives with less than 0.3% THC (including CBD) from that classification, differentiating cannabidiol from the legal definition of its counterpart, marijuana.
The scarcity of studies makes it difficult to assert claims about CBD, as there is some evidence of its effectiveness, but not an abundance - and we lack definitive answers regarding dosages and safety. This was emphasized in late 2019 when the FDA determined that CBD is not classified as a supplement.
Overall, the demand for CBD-infused products is surpassing knowledge and regulation. "Regrettably, in most cases, skincare trials, research, and scientific testing are lacking when these products enter the market," explains Mary Pryor, the New York state chapter president of Minorities for Medical Marijuana, co-founder of the diversity-advocacy group Cannaclusive, and the chief marketing officer at TONIC CBD/Tricolla Farms. That's why, she says, "Source verification is crucial when it comes to choosing the best CBD products."
Additionally, it is essential to note that the FDA warns that the potential side effects of CBD oil include:
- Drowsiness
- Gastrointestinal discomfort
- Irritability
- Agitation
Do CBD Beauty Products Truly Work?
In a nutshell: perhaps. The limited information we have on it - at least when compared to well-established ingredients like retinol - does not imply that you will not observe results or that the perceived benefits of CBD are merely imagined.
"Preclinical and a few clinical trials are demonstrating the efficacy of cannabinoids for various skin conditions, including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, scleroderma, skin cancers, neutrophil diseases, dermatomyositis, and cutaneous lupus erythematosus," explains Dr. Hadley King, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. Evidently, there is considerable potential in the realm of CBD beauty, but we require more substantial evidence. That's why you might notice that the benefits mentioned on the packaging of CBD beauty products are often ambiguous, with the word "soothe" being frequently used.
Meanwhile, in the hope of leveraging the anti-inflammatory capabilities of the extract, skincare and hair companies have been incorporating the ingredient into almost everything, from lip balms, anti-aging eye creams, body lotions, and body oils to creams for alleviating foot pain and soothing the scalp. Looking ahead, Dr. King states, you might also witness its emergence as a panacea for itching and dryness. Concurrently, Dr. Zeichner highlighted the potential use of CBD beauty products for acne, pointing to data indicating that CBD oil actually reduces the activity of sebaceous glands. (Less sebum means less oil and fewer breakouts.)
Over the past few years, leading brands in the CBD beauty sector offering a variety of products containing this hemp-derived ingredient include Lord Jones, Saint Jane, and Vertly. Other popular skincare brands have also been catching up, adding CBD face products to their ranges. Popular CBD beauty enhancers include:
- Lord Jones Pore Detox CBD Face Oil ($68): Ideal for acne breakouts and oily skin.
- Saint Jane Luxury Beauty Serum ($125): Suitable for hydration, fine lines, and anti-aging.
- Vertly Lip Butter ($20): Ideal for chapped lips.
- Herbivore Botanicals Emerald CBD + Adaptogens Deep Moisture Glow Oil ($58): Appropriate for sensitive skin types.
- Derma E Skin De-Stress Calming CBD Cleanser ($15.50): An antioxidant-rich cleanser ideal for inflamed skin.
- Highline Wellness Premium CBD Bath Bomb ($35): Ideal for sore muscles and promoting relaxation.
Do Doctors Recommend Using CBD Beauty Products?
Currently, the scarcity of comprehensive research makes dermatologists somewhat cautious when allowing their patients unrestricted use. "I believe the crux of the matter is that more work is needed in randomized, controlled trials with large enough sample sizes to establish the safety and efficacy of cannabinoids in treating skin conditions," says Dr. King. She adds that this is particularly true for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding.
Also, for anyone contemplating using it in their post-cosmetic treatment recovery plan - perhaps to alleviate anxiety and pain or accelerate healing - Dr. Emily J. Kirby, a board-certified plastic surgeon in Fort Worth, Texas, suggests it's best to hold off or, at the very least, consult with your doctor beforehand. Firstly, CBD has been shown to have anti-coagulant effects, which could complicate the recovery process. "Even non-invasive procedures like CoolSculpting can lead to bleeding or bruising in the treated areas when CBD is used," she adds.
Regarding pain, "Although [hemp derivatives] have been studied in chronic pain conditions, studies to date are not encouraging in the context of postoperative pain," says Dr. Kirby. Another reason to seek your doctor's advice: CBD has been shown to interact with certain medications, so you should definitely use it with caution.
What Should a CBD-Curious Person Do?
Despite the confusion, CBD products are abundant - and Pryor predicts that we will witness more options for scar reduction, blemish control, skincare for dryness and hydration, cellular healing, and soothing rashes and burns as time progresses. Efforts are underway to ensure that this entire sector becomes more navigable. More information is on the horizon: research is being conducted by academic and medical institutions, as well as by beauty and wellness companies. You can also anticipate stricter labeling regulations as the FDA continues to refine its stance; the organization has begun to crack down on the unregulated aspects of certain parts of the industry by issuing warnings to companies for making unsubstantiated claims and for not having the claimed level of CBD on their packaging.
In the meantime, for those who wish to incorporate the derivative into their beauty routines, follow Dr. King's advice. Look for a Certificate of Analysis (COA), which, she says, should indicate that "the product has been tested in a laboratory and will provide a breakdown of the amount of CBD it contains per batch, as well as other ingredients." Beyond that, Dr. King recommends looking for full-spectrum CBD, as it is "generally more beneficial and more effective at lower doses" than isolate, and be cautious of exaggerated claims. And of course, when in doubt, always consult your doctor.
